I wasn't super excited to paint these, so I challenged myself to speed paint them and get them done in four hours. I was pretty close, maybe only an hour off. The brush was flying! I decided to go with a campy sci-fi Scooby Doo green to give them an irradiated look. I've painted so many zombies in the past I didn't want to do the same old same old. I also used some fluorescent paint and a bit of glow in the dark pigment. It doesn't have good brushability so I didn't fight it.
These should be good for a variety of generic things, I could even see them show up in Space Hulk.
Those look great I might have to pick some up. Tho I already have 200 Nazi zombies from Westwind and all the medieval ones from Zombibicide Black Plague LOL.
ReplyDeleteThey're okay figs, not a lot of options really, and the joints leave a lot to be desired. Goof for a horde I guess :)
DeleteAnother use for the fluorescent pigment arises! Awesome. They look way better than 18 mantic models painted in 5 hours have any business looking. Love the shot of them disappearing into the dark corridor.
ReplyDeleteHehehe, thanks!
DeleteThey look just right for a campy SF adventure! They could probably pass for some kind of orky creatures, too. Very nice.
ReplyDeleteFunny enough I don't paint my orcs green, so I must have wanted to compensate :)
DeleteHaha, that's a daring green! They look better than I could have expected, I have to say!
ReplyDeleteYeah, I threw caution to the wind on these guys :)
DeleteWhat fluorescent pigment were you using? I have some old Forged Monkey fluorescent pigments I was experimenting with last week. Had issues getting them to suspend in a matt medium. Definitely not smooth. Sadly I have no saved recommendations for their use.
ReplyDeleteYou use contrast paints on the non skin areas?
I bought a bottle of Vallejo fluorescent yellow from a clearance bin, and have been looking for ways to use it. It's very transparent.
DeleteThe glow in the dark pigment is a dry powder called 'Lit' from Culture Hustle (Stuart Semple). I bought some along with the Black 3.0 for my students to use. I have some experience with dry pigment, having done old fashioned egg tempera in the past- this stuff is hard to get mixed into a medium for brushing. Stuart Semple's stuff is neat, but novelty- I find it hard to use when trying smooth brushing. The black is great for sooty stuff (I use it on flamers and braziers) and is great for super dark areas like visors and vision slits.